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Steve B. ( B9-0102 )


06/30/2012 Completion of Greg's Radar Kit

These are the foot pads which will connect the radar to the bearing plate on the collar. They are made up of a clever system of acrylic layers which trap the locking nut inside. These layers are solvent welded together to form a solid block.


This shows the five foot pads solvent welded to the underside of the top plate of the radar section.


The completed radar section. I'm really pleased with the way it has turned out thanks to Greg's comprehensive instruction sheets.


This is Greg's radar animation kit and motor assembled onto the collar section.


This shows the radar connected to the bearing plate and collar section. All that is needed now is to fit the earposts and prime the radar section.




06/18/2012 Radar Kit Update

I received Greg's radar kit along with the animation kit and here it is all laid out. I'm looking forward to getting started.


This is the clutch pack assembly. I'm using a square edge to make sure everything is absolutely vertical. I'm also using Polyweld, this is a solvent solution especially for solvent welding acrylic. It is the only type I could find over here in the UK and it is the water thin type. You just assemble your parts and then inject the solution along the join. Capillary action draws the solution into the join and welds the two surfaces together. You must make sure your parts are correctly aligned because when this stuff sets which is literally in seconds there is no going back. If any UK builders need this solution you can buy it from www.shop4glue.com at a very reasonable price.

This is the clutch assembly all welded and joined to the top section of the radar. Next step is to join it with the radar sides and bottom section.



Here is one of my homemade aluminum torso hooks ready to be primed mounted on the torso.


Here's the torso section in the middle of prepping. I'm thinking of going with a smooth finish, so there's lots of bondo filling and sanding to make sure the surface is at it's best for painting. I'm actually really enjoying this part, I'm concentrating on one area of the torso at a time and getting it right before moving onto the next area and then afterwards going back and checking again.



Here we have the wooden mold I made with the aluminum plate marked out ready for cutting forming to the correct curve for it to fit on the B9's shoulders.



After heating the aluminum plate using the gas ring on our cooker, I placed the plate in the mold and pressed down.
The aluminum was very pliable and took little effort to form. I left it in the mold to cool and then did the same for the other torso plate.



With the hooks themselves, I heating them the same way and using a vice and pliers bent them to the required angle.
After they had cooled I cut them to the required size and angle, and drilled and tapped the ends so the could be screwed to the plates.



Here are the finished torso hooks. I've used a filler called 'Chenical Metal' around the area where the hooks meet the plate to simulate a welding seam and it has worked out very well.
As I want to be as authentic as possible, I've also gone for the six screw fixing as shown in the photos on the club site. I will post a photo of them fixed to the torso shortly.





This is a picture of me doing an impression from the episode 'Wreck of the Robot' minus a few parts.  Seriously though, this is a picture of the parts I've so far accumulated towards my B9 project.  The treads I built myself, the torso, donut, bubble and brain I bought from the club.  The claws and aluminium wrists I purchased from a fellow English member and builder, Paul F. who upgraded his.



Here are my MDF treadsections in their raw state.  You may notice two sets of axle holes in the upper part of the treads.  I redrilled the upper holes as Craig's recommendation for a more accurate positioning of the upper set of wheels.  Now all I need to do is fill in the old holes I originally drilled.  I used plastic drain pipe cut into four pieces for the toe sections.  The diameter was a shade smaller, so I softened the plastic in boiling water and carefully flattened them slightly to achieve the correct curvature before gluing them in place.  All I need to do now is feather in all the joins and gaps with filler.


Here they are filled and sanded.  The soil sampler door is in postion.  I plan to cover the front and backs of the treads with sheet styrene.  This is because I want to add the little detail of the arcs to the top of each wheel housing, and also I hope it will cover any cracks in the joins should they develope over time.  My next stage will be fitting the knee plates and also I'm going to attempt at making my own fibreglass knee bellows.


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